PUB CRAWL: Shaker Mill Tavern

 

Following a thirteen-year dormancy, the doors have reopened at the beloved, much-lamented Shaker Mill Tavern in West Stockbridge, Massachusetts. And to the delight of wistful locals and curious visitors alike, the watering hole, built in 1861, is once again jam-packed on a regular basis.

 

Exuding Old World craftsmanship, the tavern’s original floors are made of mellow, knotty cedar; ceilings are thin strips of fir; tables and chairs are made of oak, maple, and pine—the entire space pays tribute to the longtime sensibility of a place where community comes together like family.

 

“We’re absolutely not trendy here,” bar manager Tony Cooke says, as he discusses his tasteful, yet unpretentious, wine selection. Cooke’s mixed drinks are often exotic in flavor—like the blood-orange juice, Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka, and ginger beer concoction—but each is served in a traditional pint glass. One member of our party raved about Cooke’s citrus-fusion Magic Button for weeks, dubbing it “purely dangerous.”

 

Cooke not only tries his hand as mixologist, but carefully selects his menu of microbrews, featuring regional favorites including Berkshire Brewing Company and Allagash, as well as other top-notch craft breweries such as Lagunitas, Oskar Blues, and Speakeasy’s Prohibition Ale, whose robust flavor pairs impeccably with the thin-crust, oven-charred pizzas served up by chef Ron Reda (formerly of the now-defunct Asters in Pittsfield, Massachusetts).

 

Fresh ingredients and expert preparation invigorate the tavern’s traditional pub fare: classic wings are tweaked with barbecue sauce and a wedge of cornbread; a refreshingly chilled spinach and artichoke dip is served with warm, savory pita chips. Hefty, mouthwatering burgers parade from the kitchen trailed by enticing aromas as soft music is trumped by cheerful conversation. Despite only having reopened in May, the Shaker Mill Tavern has nestled itself back into its familiar niche of village life, just as the nostalgic locale it was built to be. [AUGUST 2009]

 

 

 

 

THE GOODS

Shaker Mill Tavern
5 Albany Rd./
West Stockbridge, Mass.