Dream Away Lodge

Feelings about this backwoods hangout in Becket, Massachusetts, are invariably wistful: The Dream Away is a magical place. Or, It reminds me of lost horizons. Or, I always get lost, but the journey is worth it.

It?s not the sort of place you stop by for a quick bite, so reservations are almost mandatory. But its legend of hospitality?as a onetime brothel, a rogue speakeasy, and a mellow oasis for dreamers and thinkers and music makers?is tasted in the creative, comforting fare churned out by longtime area chef Amy Loveless.

Begin with the iceberg wedge?s crispy, creamy, cool refreshment, or with field greens cradling a free-range egg. Order whatever soup is being whisked out in the kitchen?s mismatched crockery?creamy mushroom, spicy black bean, snappy gazpacho. (Sigh.)

Then choose from a motley crew of Dream Away darlings (meatloaf, braised chicken, plump rib-eye steaks) set with freshly foraged veggies, plus all sorts of feel-good fare for which you might be in the mood: big ol? burgers, crispy fish, thin-crust pizzas (featuring? fresh tomatoes, feta, and herbs; grilled calamari and arugula, on occasion). A plate of Mediterranean nibbles features the usual suspects, gussied up, if requested, with tender morsels of lamb; barbecue spareribs are smoked in-house and slathered with homemade sauce?reputed to turn most-of-the-time vegetarians back onto the perilous path of pork.

Dessert ends the meal with a wink and a smile; if you?ve earmarked $28 (cash only, don?t forget) for the three-course prix-fixe experience, a chocolate brownie sundae or hunk of homemade pie is coming your way, so get thee to the self-serve coffee bar. Sip on just one more sassy libation?a Hilltown Hooker or Kick Ass Corzo Margarita, anyone??then wander over to the den for the weekly hootenanny jam session or out to the bonfire for a sultry solo from a wandering minstrel.